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Messages - gc339

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1
Monnayeurs & Serrures / Monnayeurs JEUTEL Rénovation HELP
« le: Vendredi 16 Juin 2017, 21:53:04 pm »
Il me reste un cadre dans ce genre mais c'est un modèle avec deux portes, l'une au dessus de l'autre, une avec emplacements pour deux monnayeurs et l'autre sans aucun.
Ce cadre pourrait probablement faire l'affaire à condition d'agrandir la découpe vers le haut et/ou le bas à la scie sauteuse. La découpe nécessaire doit mesurer 20 × 49 cm au plus juste.
MP si interessé.

2
Alimentation, Electricité, & Cablage / Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply
« le: Mercredi 15 Février 2017, 22:03:15 pm »
Zener diodes have a certain accuracy and the 14 volts you measured are always within the tolerance range of 10% of the expected 13 volts.
So 13 volts is the right value (E24 serie) and 0,5 watt of max power should be OK.

The diodes of the link you gave do not have a manufacturer reference and this is a bit disturbing. It will be advised to measure them with the checker before soldering.

3
Alimentation, Electricité, & Cablage / Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply
« le: Mercredi 15 Février 2017, 18:53:06 pm »
The best way to know the zener voltage of diode 13Z is to measure it on the other diode 13Z (ZD02) which is normally OK.

Here is a simple checker schematic. It should be suitable for measuring a zener up to 15 volts, otherwise it will require a voltage source higher than the two 9 volts batteries.



Here another measure which unfortunately requires a more sophisticated apparatus : http://jestineyong.com/how-to-measure-the-voltage-rating-of-a-zener-diode/

4
Alimentation, Electricité, & Cablage / Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply
« le: Mercredi 15 Février 2017, 17:03:02 pm »
Yes, S118 is the shortcut for the japanese reference Hitachi 1SS118 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JIS_semiconductor_designation)

About the 13Z diode, sure it's a zener diode but the suffix is unknown. So I am unable to certify it's a 13 volts item, for example it exists the 1SZ13 diode which is a 36 volts zener!

5
Alimentation, Electricité, & Cablage / Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply
« le: Jeudi 09 Février 2017, 21:55:25 pm »
Have you checked all the components inside the blue-sky layout ?



6
Alimentation, Electricité, & Cablage / Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply
« le: Jeudi 09 Février 2017, 19:54:32 pm »
Sorry again, I forgot to postpone the second digit "1" when I drew the draft of the DC/DC converter (summer 2013), so it's  D11  and not D1



7
Alimentation, Electricité, & Cablage / Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply
« le: Mercredi 08 Février 2017, 22:47:18 pm »
I just tested with the other leg of R24 - also 328V present at both the blue circled marked test points.
Then the R24 might be good? it is also brand new

With this last measurement I am quite sure R24 is OK.


8
Alimentation, Electricité, & Cablage / Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply
« le: Mercredi 08 Février 2017, 22:22:07 pm »
Can you try with the other leg of R24 ?

9
Alimentation, Electricité, & Cablage / Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply
« le: Mercredi 08 Février 2017, 12:13:00 pm »
To check voltage at the primary of L2, it's better to measure it between one of the two lite-blue surrounded points and one leg of R4. (are you sure R4 is OK?)

Sorry, I was not careful enough and I made a mistake, it's R24 and not R4. So you must read :

Citer
To check voltage at the primary of L2, it's better to measure it between one of the two lite-blue surrounded points and one leg of R24 (are you sure R24 is OK?)



10
Alimentation, Electricité, & Cablage / Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply
« le: Mardi 07 Février 2017, 21:56:10 pm »
I have tried to measure if there is any volt present at the input of the L2 transformer.
To check voltage at the primary of L2, it's better to measure it between one of the two lite-blue surrounded points and one leg of R4. (are you sure R4 is OK?)

It's possible the DC/DC converter can't start due to a short circuit or an overload in an auxiliary supply. This possibility can be eliminated by desoldering one leg of diodes D1, D3, D9 and D10 (D8 must remain in place because the +12 volts is mandatory for voltage control to work).


11
Alimentation, Electricité, & Cablage / Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply
« le: Vendredi 03 Février 2017, 13:41:02 pm »
Here is the schematic of the low voltage power supply :


Q1 & L2 are the main parts of a blocking oscillator :
  • Winding 3-4 is the main primary winding of L2.
  • Winding 1-6 is the feedback winding, used to drive Q1 gate and make it oscillate.
  • Q2 is used to protect Q1 against :
    • Driving overvoltage (ZD2).
    • Drain/source overcurrent (R24 voltage).
  • Windings 3-5, 7-8, 10-11, 12-13 and F-S are secondary windings, used to produce the low-voltage auxiliary DC supplies.
  • The stability of the low-voltage auxiliary supplies is tributary of the +12 volts supply regulation provided via the DC feedback loop (optocoupler PC1 & shunt regulator IC3).

So, it's necessary to first check involved components in the blocking oscillator : transistors (Q1 &Q2), diodes (D4 ... D6, ZD1 & ZD2), resistors, capacitors...

12
Alimentation, Electricité, & Cablage / Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply
« le: Samedi 28 Janvier 2017, 11:40:20 am »
When I must order from a Chinese seller, I prefer those based in Hong-Kong rather than mainland China because the items usually arrive home in less than two weeks.

13
Alimentation, Electricité, & Cablage / Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply
« le: Vendredi 27 Janvier 2017, 21:41:27 pm »
It's rather strange these two resistors were cut at the same time.
They are only involved each time the power is switched ON just to limit current through capacitors C8 & C9, they are then short-circuited by TR1 in established and steady operation.

The plausible explanation is that TR1 cut itself first, so they had to undergo all the load to finally burn themselves.

14
Alimentation, Electricité, & Cablage / Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply
« le: Jeudi 26 Janvier 2017, 23:09:52 pm »
If i messure the voltage at the bridge rectifier, with leads connected to + and - i get 248,9V DC - Thats quite low? is not? it shoud be 310V - so it might be the cap's at C8 and C9 who is bad?

≈249VDC measured between the outputs "+" & "" of the bridge rectifier would mean 176VAC between the inputs "~" of this bridge. Are you sure your mains voltage is OK? Have you measured it?
For exemple, here at home in France, the mains voltage is about 240 VAC and the rectified voltage sets around 340 VDC.



Are you sure R1 & R2 are OK ?

Is the DC voltage at the terminals of C8 equal to that at the terminals of C9?
Are these also equal to half the voltage at the output of the rectifier even if you only measure 249VDC?

15
Alimentation, Electricité, & Cablage / Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply
« le: Mardi 24 Janvier 2017, 21:03:35 pm »
Firstly, it is not advisable to do these measurements with the PCB connected directly to the mains. It's safer for you to supply it through an isolation transformer.

Then remove the solder jumper to disconnect the four power VMOS of the H bridge, as I did at 1ère Etape

At the indicated test points you must measure a DC voltage of 310V (220Vac × √2).

16
Alimentation, Electricité, & Cablage / Sega G-loc deluxe motor power supply
« le: Lundi 23 Janvier 2017, 12:04:19 pm »
Sorry, I missed the last messages.

Pin 1 is indicated by the truncated (or rounded) corner. Then you need to count the pins clockwise when you look at the bottom of the item or in a counterclockwise direction if you look at it from its top. Free places (not equipped with pins) must also be numbered for the count to be right.
F and S wires are those which are directly soldered on the printed circuit.



The resistance of the windings seems a bit too high regarding the one I measured, it seems you failed to take in account the additional resistance inserted by the ohmmeter wires.

This kind of tester you use should be able to measure inductances, please check this ability on the Chinese seller's advertisement.
The display of a winding check should look like this :


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